We’ve put together a crew of runners from all over the country to help us test and represent Ultimate Direction. We are proud to have these talented ambassadors on board and want to wish them a great season of racing and adventuring. Keep an eye out for them on the trails! We’d like to introduce you to the class of 2014 –>
For the first month of 2014, I’ve been injured, again. Back in the first week of the year, I aggravated a hip flexor while shuffling my way up a mountain, and a month later it’s finally showing signs of health. Injuries aren’t unfamiliar to me, but after 19 years of running, they are no less frustrating. Especially when seemingly induced by an activity (skinning uphill) that, by all accounts, should be the perfect, low-impact winter complement to my summer pursuits. A year ago, I wrote a post about dealing with injuries, so I have no desire to re-tread that ground.
With skiing (skinning) and running off the table, I’ve been attempting to remain physically engaged in the only other activity that holds serious interest to me: climbing. Except that it’s the dead of winter here in Boulder and the local crags are typically wet, if not fully encased in snow and ice. Other than a week in mid-January when I was able to get in three days on proper granite and sandstone, this means that I’ve been climbing plastic, in the gym.
This has very much been a first for me. Prior to this winter, I had roped up in a gym exactly once before. But, I have some modest climbing-ish goals for the summer season (mostly a couple of moderate but long and tricky traverses/link-ups in Wyoming) and getting stronger and improving my technique will make those go a whole lot more efficiently, hopefully. And especially with the winter conditions, the easiest way to be consistent, improve, and lay a base for the summer is to hit the gym. At the first of the year I finally committed to the indoors by buying a pass to Movement Climbing+Fitness and have been going four or five days a week.
The climbing gym (especially in Boulder, CO, where there is a pretty astounding concentration of climbing talent) is an eye-opening place. First, I’m not a good climber. Outdoors, I’m a below-average climber; in the gym, I’m a rote beginner, both in terms of strength and technique. Second, the vast majority of my climbing outside has been of the traditional variety, meaning that I’m placing my own removable protection (stoppers, cams and the like) on lead, or seconding beneath a belay constructed of same. Third, while well-placed cams and nuts are fully capable of holding a fall—but, really, who wants to unnecessarily test this?—I generally subscribe to the maxim that the leader does not fall. As a result, almost everything I climb outside has been fully within my abilities, which doesn’t offer up much opportunity to really push myself and get stronger.
The first week in the gym, I was barely able to climb. After maybe 30-40min, my grip strength was completely exhausted and I could barely untie my shoes let alone continue clinging to a hold. To counteract this, however, is the totally ridiculous but still nice ego-boost one receives by rocketing up grades that I typically wouldn’t even consider outside. Even if one factors in the generally safe, controlled environment of a gym (pre-hung draws, top-ropes, extreme unlikeliness that a hold is going to break or a rock is going to fall on your head), gym ratings still seem outrageously inflated. In the gym, I typically warm up on a grade that is at my leading limit outdoors. Fun! And after six weeks, endurance is rarely the limiting factor for me anymore; I can usually climb with decent technique for almost all of my typical 2-2.5hr session.
Any inflation in my confidence is very short-lived, however. The simple fact is that I am a horrendous climber. This is not annoying self-effacement. This is fact. Much like how in running, the track and stopwatch don’t lie, in climbing, one’s pure strength and technical expertise (or glaring lack thereof) is laid out quite starkly in the gym. Essentially, all the heady intangibles of actual climbing—wind, loose rock, run-outs, lichen, wet rock, poorly-placed protection, etc, etc—are removed and all that is left is pure performance, the movement. My chosen gym is aptly named, I’ve found. Just like there is no denying that I’ve never run faster than a 4:42 mile, in the gym there’s no denying that in my current state, I will almost certainly fall off a 5.11b.
On any given day, I am pretty close to being the worst climber in the gym. Again, this is no exaggeration. Thanks to the previously mentioned, prominently posted grades, it’s really easy to see how easy or hard everyone is climbing. And everyone climbs harder than me in the gym. Women twice my age. Dudes with beer bellies. Tiny girls a third my age. Fellow weakling runners, who, given their technical trail skills outside (or lack thereof—I’m looking at you, Trent ) I would never expect to excel in the vertical world. So, it is deeply humbling. The ego is deflated. It turns out that being able to nimbly scramble a flatiron in running shoes (or ten in a morning), or launching up a multi-pitch climb in Eldo with no more than five cams and a set of stoppers (climbing gear is expensive!) has absolutely zero bearing on one’s ability to crush in the gym.
But, the flipside of this is that my curve of improvement is pleasantly steep. In running—especially in the mountains—I’ve felt competent, even accomplished, for many years. My improvement in that arena continues to go up, but it occurs in predictably incremental steps. And to continue to improve, I have to keep paying attention to smaller and smaller details.
Conversely, after only six weeks in the gym, I can tell that I have made significant gains, if only because I started so pathetically low on the spectrum. Most of the improvement comes from simple consistency and from realizing that there is usually an easier way: rotate your hips into the wall, move your feet up, read and anticipate the sequence, don’t hold on so tightly, quickly move past the bad holds instead of stalling out on them. It’s all pretty basic stuff, but, like most things, is also easier said than done (at least for me).
While applying myself with commitment to something new is inherently fresh and exciting, it is also frustrating. Since my goal is improvement, it seems that working towards that on a climbing wall inevitably means struggle and failure and an overall feeling of incompetency. Because of the cush, controlled environment, it doesn’t take long for laps on easy routes in the gym to start feeling like complacency instead of training for endurance. So in striving to improve, a lot of my time is spent falling off of routes that are at the very edge of my current ability. This is frustrating, especially when you can feel yourself doing it wrong—climbing with poor technique—but somehow feel powerless to do anything about it.
Because I’ve been running for 19 years, being outside, moving quickly and efficiently in the mountains has become the main thing in my life where I feel competent. I feel reasonably skilled, effective, a master of meshing my effort and abilities with the terrain and covering ground quickly. If indoor climbing is supposed to be my physical outlet right now, in almost every way it’s an awfully poor one when compared to what I’m usually able to do outside. But that’s okay. Growth only comes through challenge and failure, so I’ll take my lumps. And, eventually, hopefully, it’ll have a positive effect on my experiences out in the mountains.
Deanne Buck is the Executive Director of the Outdoor Industries Women’s Coalition and was apart of the UD Women’s Collective that helped design and test the new Jenny Collection. We got to sit down and ask her a few questions about the experience.
How long have you been into running?
I started running when I was 4- playing kick the can with my neighborhood friends. I stopped running for about 10 years in my teens and early 20′s and started back up when I was 22 years old- over half my life time ago. . .ummm, did I just paint myself in a corner?
What is your sweet spot for weekly distance?
Sweet spot is anywhere from 25 miles – 40 miles depending on how I am feeling, time of year, and what else is going on in my life. My sweetest runs these days are out my back door (which abuts National Forest land and trails) with my 15 year-old running companion, Sequoia (dog).
How did you enjoy being apart of the UD women’s collective to create the Jenny Collection?
On many runs, I dream of designing the perfect product, one that meets my every needs. Being a part of the Jenny Collection allowed me to live out that fantasy. I felt like queen for a day.
Now that the products are actually ready for the public which piece would you recommend most? The Handy 10oz is great for everyday use.
Now that you’ve gotten to see the “insides” of the design and development process what was the most eye opening part of it?
The thoughtfulness that went into every aspect of the final product.
Where was the last place you ran that really made you go WOW?
I live at 8,200 feet and have trails and mountains out my backyard. Pretty much every run is a WOW run for me. . . and, it is not lost on me on how lucky I am.
What is your post race/run treat?
Sushi – a complete food: rice, tuna, seaweed, and wasabi.
Shop the whole Jenny Collection!
Take a peek at the 3 new product videos about the new and improved 2.0 versions of our 3 Signature Series running vests.
Anton Krupicka’s Race Vest 2.0 - Watch Now
Scott Jurek’s Ultra Vest 2.0 - Watch Now
Peter Bakwin’s Adventure Vest 2.0 – Watch Now
The next generation of our Signature Series arrives soon! The vests Scott Jurek, Anton Krupicka and Peter Bakwin designed were incredibly successful, but the boys thought of some great ideas for improvements, so here they are: Signature Series 2.0.
For additional durability, we switched the Cuben Fiber for Silnylon 66, beefed up all the mesh and bungy cords, and added edge binding to the stretch pockets on the three vests. For easier sizing and a better fit, we added lateral adjustment straps on Scott and Peters, and for easier access to an internal bladder those two vests now have a third access zipper. Anton’s vest is more streamlined without the pockets at the bottom of the main compartment. And everything has been updated with our new color and logo.
The vests stayed virtually the same capacity — they are just stronger and tuned to perform better.
AK Race Vest: $99.95 – (weight w/o bottles 7 oz)
SJ Ultra Vest: $129.95 – (weight w/o bottles 11 oz)
PB Adventure Vest: $159.95 – (weight w/o bottles16 oz)
Also stay tuned for our NEW website!
By Sage Canaday
I’ve been training and racing year-round for 15 years. In the last year and a half I’ve been competing as a professional Mountain-Ultra-Trail Runner, and in that short time have become fascinated with the culture, community and history of this sport. I’ve already learned a great deal from long-time ambassadors such as Buzz Burrell and Scott McCoubrey, whose trail running roots go back to before I was even born. Guys like these, as well as super-star ultra runners like Scott Jurek (amongst many others) have helped pave the way for what the sport is today. I greatly respect and appreciate these individuals’ contributions to US ultra-trail running, and their stories of the past have provided me with context to understand how the sport is evolving now.
I believe that the sport has recently undergone some dynamic changes. A new kind of runner has emerged … a type of runner that will break course records, compete internationally, and rely heavily on support from sponsors as well as prize money from races. This is what I call “the rise of the MUT Runner”. What is this person’s background, and what are the concerns and benefits of this development?
Michele Yates was one of the first gals we wanted to be apart of our women’s collective. Over a year ago we asked her to help us out with brainstorming, fit reviews and product testing - and she jumped right in!
She was super keen to help out and always showed up early to check out our most current proto-types and give input on the new line of women’s products that Jenny Jurek has been putting together. Michele’s input was key to creating the new Ultra Vesta as Michele has/is putting in the miles.
She stepped into the Ultra Running world from personal training and a marathon background – an 2x Olympic Marathon Trials qualifier might we add – which might explain her 3x National Champion in the ultra trail events. We are excited that she is on board and her feedback has been tremendous. Recently she crossed the finish line 1st in the USATF 50K Trail Championships in Bootlegger Canyon in Boulder City, NV, on Nov. 8. She happened to be wearing the most current sample of the Ultra Vesta. Yeah Girl!!!
The group of gals who made up the Women’s Collective ranged from professionals like Michele to casual everyday joggers (stay tuned for more updated on each of the ladies involved). It was great to have a broad range of users to get feedback from. Michele brought great technical feedback from a racers perspective. We tweaked several things to make this vest perfect for racing and training. The final Ultra Vesta will be available by the end of the year. Learn more about the Ultra Vesta.
A few fun facts about Michele:
1.January 1/12/13 Bandera 100k USA 100k Trail Champs 1st Female 10:08:48
2. March 3/2/13 Nueces 50 Mile USA 50 Mile Champs 1st Female 4th Overall (NCR) New Course Record 6:53:25
3. April 4/21/13 Indiana Trail 100 mile 1st Female and 1st Overall 17:35 NCR
4. World Championships IAU July 2013 103rd place-injured but helped USA score for the first time ever as a team
5. September 9/14/13 Run Rabbit Run 100 Mile 1st Female 7th Overall 20:16:54 NCR
6. UROC 100k 9/28/2013 3rd Female 19th Overall 12:46:24
Watch Michele’s interview from her win at Run Rabbit run with Bryon from iRunFar
Read more about Michele’s pre-race preparation and training on her blog –> DREAM LIVE RUN
Here in our Boulder office, the 100-year flood that happened on September 9th is still fresh in our minds. I have friends who are still without access to their homes and trails because of damage. It happened in our back yard, and we are a family. Everyone jumped up and were frantically asking “how can we help, what do you need?” We were all lucky that our close-knit outdoor community bonded together, we received major resources and support from the federal government, and we made quick progress.
On November 3rd yet another natural disaster affected a different part of our family, the one across the Pacific Ocean. Monster typhoon Haiyan (the largest storm in recorded history) stormed through central Philippines with 185 mph winds, leaving a path of flattened towns and coastlines for miles. It wrecked havoc on a country with 7,100 islands and displaced over 600,000 people. Look at all of the tiny islands on this map.
DESIGNED BY WOMEN FOR WOMEN
We brought together a group of talented female runners, both professional and casual runners that we paired with runner and lead designer Jenny Jurek (Yes, Scott Jurek’s wife is a talented designer) to create a line of products that are designed specifically for female athletes, by female athletes. After months of brainstorming, patterning, testing, tweaking and several “jump photos’ we are excited to see it come to life. In a few weeks we will present the power of this collective in the Jenny Collection. Four products specifically designed to fit perfectly, perform flawlessly, and amplify your drive to the finish line. Take a look for yourself.
We’d like to not only THANK Jenny Jurek but all the gals involved, everyone contributed to the final product and we can’t wait to share it with you all!!
Since Landon Cooper was 15 years old he dreamed of running across America, he never dreamed it would be for such a worthy cause; Sarcoma Cancer Research.
On his recent 157 day team running tour he witnessed first hand the lethal affects of sarcoma cancer on the countless warriors and their families across the USA. The Miles 2 Give traveling team was composed of three runners traveling in a Winnebago RV. Landon Cooper is Founder & Runner. Ryan Priest is Tour Director & Runner. John McKay is Videographer & Runner. The team will covered 24-30 miles daily completing over 3000 miles in total.
This was not just a recreational run; they were very serious about raising awareness, money, and leaving everyone inspired. During their cross-country journey they visited schools and hospitals, hosted events, fundraisers, and had meetings with town locals. We were happy to provide hydration belts and bottles to the crew and were even able to run with them during their Colorado leg of the run. Landon is a pretty deep guy, and his commitment to help people was evident – he got most excited when talking about the children he had just met, rather than the miles he had just run. The “Life Elevated” state would do just that, elevating his greater purpose. Running. Giving. Inspiring. For three months he worked long days and trained in frigid conditions in preparation for the unknowns of running across the country. He is extremely passionate about being a part of the generation that finds the antidote for cancer.
Now that this first endeavor is complete they are setting their sights on the Land Down Under. Stay tuned for the progress.
About Miles 2 Give Miles 2 Give is a 501c3 non-profit organization dedicated to finding a cure for Sarcoma. We raise funding for Sarcoma cancer research through cross-country ultra-running all the while leaving people inspired until there is a cure. For more information on Miles 2 Give, please visit www.miles2give.org. Give them a LIKE on Facebook, “Miles 2 Give” to stay tuned to all the exciting projects ongoing as well. Currently they have just signed with Huntsman Cancer Institute for direct distribution of 2014 Tour $ raised for sarcoma research. Miles 2 Give offers 2013 Finisher shirts on their website made by cancertees.com, & also M2G Art by Landon is available for purchase as well. Check out his galleries on the Miles 2 Give Facebook page. 20% of all art & apparel goes to their 2013 Wish Granted Program. The 2014 Tour has yet to be announced, so stay tuned!